A few days near Lucerne
I had a small dilemma. Ride? Or not ride? I admit, in the abstract, it seems obvious. moreWhy ride? I was heading to a workshop in Switzerland for a few days. I’d be staying in a pretty little town on the quiet shores of Lake Lucerne, a gorgeous lake surrounded by snow-covered mountains. The weather looked good. Easy answer: ride.
Except. I didn’t have a bike there. Yes… it’s true that I have a bike in Switzerland, but that bike was over an hour away, by car. And that bike wasn’t geared for the mountains around Lucerne. I could bring a bike with me on the plane… but I would have to haul it in that huge case to the hotel via train, then boat, then taxi. Ugh. And they’d charge me both ways to haul that thing on the plane. What a pain - for probably just two rides. So, obviously: skip it.
Except. I would be heading out on a hard six-day bike tour a week after the workshop was over. From a training standpoint, the worst possible thing to do during the week would be to stop riding… I needed to keep some sort of exercise going. So I had to ride.
Except. I’d be in a pretty intense workshop for three days, starting early every morning and ending late every day… followed, most likely, by a group dinner, going late into each night. Followed by a few hours on my laptop trying to keep with my day job. The workshop mattered intensely… skipping out to go for a ride wasn’t an option. Oh, and I’d have jet lag, so sleep was at a premium. Even if I managed to get a bike there, there was probably no way to find time to get out. I’d better be responsible and skip riding for the week.
Ahhhhhhh… screw it. Enough logic. Go with my gut. It was gorgeous alpine scenery. Paths to find. Peaks to climb. Adventures to seek. There HAD to be some way to ride.
So, I found myself in a hotel room at the top of a quaint five-star hotel on the shores of Lake Lucerne, extracting my climbing bike from its flight case. Somehow I’d gotten the bike there… now I had to find some places to ride and some time to ride, without sacrificing work. Game on.
After arriving, I went out for a short recovery ride along the lake shore, just to get my bearings, stretch my legs and make sure I’d put the bike together the right way. Not worth writing much about a recovery ride, but gotta say… if you have do recovery, along the shores of Lake Lucerne is hard to beat.
On Monday night, I hunted around on Strava’s heat maps and RidewithGPS for a good route. I’d already found plenty, but now that I was in town, I had a better sense of the local roads and where I might be able to get to.
Picking routes from the net is always a gamble. They might be out of date. They might be on gravel, or have construction. They might be mountain bike routes… and you can’t tell until you get there. Even if the route is perfect, it’s always a challenge to do - you don’t know what turns or obstacles are coming. You’re not sure of the pacing. It’s a bad idea to try these when you have to be back from your ride by a certain time.
Oh well.
I chose a route that followed the lake for about 10 miles as a warm up, then headed up a remote pass. I wasn’t sure how much time I’d have to ride up, or if the road was rideable the whole way, or if it entered private lands. So my goal was to just go as far up as I could, then turn around and head back, with about an hour to spare before work, giving me time to get cleaned up, eat, and get to the workshop.
Gaetterlipass
Tuesday morning, 5am, after a little incident with the hotel clerk in the lobby, I was on my bike, heading east toward the sun rising over the mountains. The lake was quiet. The road was empty.
I cruised through several sleeping towns, past a bakery that was opening, and along empty shore line, following the road as it hugged the lakeside, slowly rising up and down. Following the arrows on my GPS, I turned away from the lake through a little town center.
The road started heading uphill. I wouldn’t see a flat or downhill spot for an hour or more. The road meandered out of town and up into green pastures, where sleepy goats watched me climb slowly by. The road narrowed down to about the width of a car. Let’s call it a path at this point. A path with great asphalt.
Locals came zooming down the path in dinky little cars and/or far machinery, probably heading to a bakery or work. Every time I’d hear an engine buzzing in the distance, I’d mosey off the path onto the gravel and dirt on the side, trying to simultaneously avoid being run over and avoid getting shocked by the ubiquitous electrical fences keeping livestock on the fields. Fun.
I kept climbing.. the slope seemed to vary between 5% and 15%. I was trying to keep my pace attempo, below threshold, aiming for a steady ride. After a while I quit paying attention to power and heart rate and just rode in the morning still.
Thank goodness I’d brought my climbing bike. The bike I keep in Basel would never have gotten up this hill. I need to upgrade that bike.
After a while, I reached my designated turn-around time. I wasn’t done climbing yet… plenty more hill to go. I wanted to get to the top of this thing.
I recalculated my turn-around time, figuring I would be going down this MUCH faster than I had originally thought. Yay - that gave me more time to keep going up! So I kept climbing.
Finally I reached the top of the pass. The view was spectacular. I rode out to a little overlook and soaked it in.. the early morning sun over the glaciers in the distance, the pure lake down below, surrounded by peaks and little towns. Gorgeous.
At this point it was soooo tempting to keep going down the other side of the pass, because that’s what you do with passes… But no, I had work to get back to. On the other hand… the path actually kept going up. It turned left onto the saddle at the pass, and kept going up the mountain. Hmm. I HAD to see what was there, right? I was pretty sure I could make up the time on the descent. And maybe by riding really hard once I was back on the lake front I could get back in time… So… up I went.
The path turned to gravel, then wound through dense trees. I crossed cattle guards and streams. I went through someone’s farm yard, then continued up. Finally the path reached an open spot, looking out over the lake region. The path ended here at a closed and locked farm gate. I took in the view, gloriously happy that I’d decided to bring my bike, climbed this amazing thing, and briefly escaped the reality waiting me back at the hotel.
Now, time for down. And time to haul ass back to the real world. I put on my vest to keep me warm as I descended through the chill. Minutes later I was back at the top of the pass, then picked up speed once I was on asphalt.
I banked around a corner and came to a screeching halt to avoid crashing into a peloton of cows that had taken over the road. A farmer was moving the cows from one pasture to another, at a pace that was apparently designed the keep the cows as relaxed as possible…. lycra-clad idiots in a rush could be damned.
I waited patiently for a break in the herd, then used my Cambridge-honed traffic skills to duck and weave through the crowd, hoping these commuters wouldn’t kick me. I dive-bombed the rest of the descent. Turns out this is REALLY exciting when the road is narrow, with fences on both sides.
Finally - and far too quickly - I was back down to the lake. I gobbled a gel, got in the drops, and time-trialed back to the hotel. I was able to catch the draft on some cars, and even passed a bus on the flats… I arrived back at the hotel just as a couple of my colleagues were walking through the front door to get breakfast before work. Phew, made it with just barely enough time to clean up and get to the workshop. A perfect start to a day.
During a few quiet moments in the day, I eyeballed all the cycling route sites, hoping to find another perfect route for later in the week. My rough plan was to catch up on desperately-needed sleep on Wednesday morning, do a short recovery ride, and then head out for another serious ride on Thursday.
Over the next couple of days, I identified a lot of options. I was really hoping to climb Mt. Pilatus, to the southwest of Lucerne. It’s a famous peak, with a huge observatory at the top. I found a route up, but after a while I decided it must be a mountain bike path. Moreover, I’d have to drive to the start, which would add about 1.5 hours to the morning … impossible.
This was really frustrating. I was within 45 minutes of a world-famous peak… much closer than, say, being in the US… and yet, in practice, I just couldn’t go there to scope out the road and perhaps climb the mountain.
So, instead, I found another route, closer to the hotel, that looked like it also had massive potential. This one would take me to the top of the Rig ski area - also a pretty major mountain, and well-known in Switzerland. And, on the adventure side of things, I couldn’t tell if the route up was open, was paved, or was a mountain bike path. Only one way to find out…
Rigi
Around 4:30am, I tossed my bike in my rental car and started driving along the lake shore. I hoped to get reasonably close to the climb, warm up on a flat approach, and then go see what I could find that would get me to the top of Rigi.
After a significant drive, I had a bit of a fiasco with parking. The Swiss are anal-retentive about where you can put your car, particularly in towns that are the bases of ski areas… so I worried at one point that I wouldn’t be able to get a ride in at all, but finally, by 6am, I’d stashed the car and was on my bike. Same routine: flat roads, quaint towns, idyllic lakes.
As I pedaled, I could see the Rigi peaks in the distance.
Mmmm. Looked high. Good training for Alpine rides:
- Look up at peak.
- Say out loud, “I’m going up THAT???”
- Shrug, keep riding.
- A few minutes later, repeat.
I turned off the main road, cruised through a farm yard, and got onto a little farm road. As expected, it got steep and narrow.
Up. Pastures. Little farm houses. A big sign celebrated the birth of Lucas, about a week ago. Cows. More pastures. Up. Realized I was pushing pretty hard.. backed off a bit. Up, round a corner. HOLY COW THAT’S STEEP. Owowowow. Ok, got past that.. but still steep. Hairpins. Cattle guards.
Signs that looked like they said I shouldn’t be on this road. Fortunately, I couldn’t read them. Into the forest. More up.
Finally I got to the point where it looked on the map like the road might become a mountain bike path. The asphalt turned to gravel, but was still rideable, so I kept going. It flattened out a bit… wow, nice. But it was just fooling… up it went again.
Pretty soon I crossed the train tracks of a mountain train. In addition to the two standard tracks, there’s a 3rd rail of cogwheel gears, used by the trains to keep from slipping as the go up and down the mountain. This must have been one of the trains that brings skiers up to the peaks. I passed a train station, then followed the gravel path as it took me into an empty little town on the side of the mountain.. probably something populated largely during vacation seasons. Paths went all over, but most seemed to dead-end in farms, or become actual hiking paths. I followed my GPS sketch.
The gravel turned to cement. It felt like I was riding on a sidewalk. A steep sidewalk. Bizzarre.
By this time, I was starting to get really worried about the time. I was afraid there was no way I’d make it back in time, particularly with the drive I would have to do to get back to the hotel. I should have turned around. But… I wasn’t to the top yet. Somewhere out there in front of me, above me, was the peak. I wasn’t even sure I could find a road that could get me there… but I had to find out. So I kept riding.
The road got insanely steep again for a bit, and the wind picked up. 28%, into a headwind. Balance was interesting… too far forward, and I had no traction. Too far backwards, and my front wheel would rise up, threatening to flip me backwards. The wind made this really exciting. Never done anything quite like that on a road bike. Lincoln Gap, Schmlincoln Gap.
I kept following the sidewalk path thing up the mountain.. through farm yard, past hiking trails, into little sections of forest… and finally it opened up. I could see the top of the ski area ahead, complete with restaurants, a train station, cell phone towers, and a gondola. A few minutes and another steep section later, I was there.
Hallefreakinglujah! I’d found a way up through the maze of trails, and I’d actually gotten to the summit!
I took a quick picture from the top, then dove back down the trail. This time, I didn’t go too fast … the cement was dubious, the wind was blustery, and it was so steep I was worried about roasting my brakes.
Finally I got below the tree line and to slightly less steep pitches, so I cranked up the speed. I might still be able to make it back in time. But no, on the way down, what happened but…
COW PELOTON. Sigh.
That took forever.. but I got through that, and then I screamed my way down the mountain. I love love love those downhills, even when…, no scratch that… especially when they’re steep, narrow, and twisty. Awesomely fun.
Finally down to the flats, time trial back to the car, hop in and drive like a maniac back to the hotel…. only to get stuck behind a slow tour bus for the last 30 minutes of the drive… I was late to the workshop, but that turned out to be ok this particular time.
Another perfect - or almost perfect - start to a day.
Really glad I took my bike.